(1). EnviroTex should be warm when mixed, 70*-75* is preferable. Warmer coating blends, self- levels and releases bubbles more easily. Use warm tap water to warm bottles; soak for about 10 minutes. Warming bottles may reduce working time so don’t overheat; the coating absorbs heat easily so ten minutes is usually sufficient for warming.
(2). Always double blend for a total of three full minutes using a wooden paint stick in buckets made for mixing. The smaller the volume the more critical accurate measuring becomes.
(3). Temperature in pouring area should be between 70* and 80*F and under 50% humidity. Basement locations can be humidity-challenging as they seem to be dry but also seem to harbor more moisture than other areas in a building.
(4). Always seal coat porous surfaces; after seal coat, if dry spots are evident, apply another seal coat. This is especially important with oak, cedar, cypress and madrone. Woods prone to checking like pine, benefit from multiple seal coats, all in an effort to trap the air into the wood to avoid bubbles in the final coat. Bubbles will happen because we are working with a natural substance! Bubbles that are removed and then come back are always from the wood. EnviroTex Lite is the best sealer for wood. Don’t waste time sealing the above noted woods with other products as they can fail. Other woods that are less porous can be effectively sealed with several layers of poly or varnish then scuff sanded in preparation for the EnviroTex Lite.
(5). EnviroTex Lite can be sanded if re-flood coated with EnviroTex Lite. If sanded, satin polyurethane may be applied to achieve a less than glossy result (satin finish) or the surface may be sanded and buffed with a great deal of work. Skill and experience in polishing is suggested if trying to polish a surface.
(6). When doing edges, using more product on the top of the surface will result in much nicer sides or edges. Brush the sides repeatedly during the first hour after application using a sponge brush. After two hours, scrape off drips with clean paint sticks to avoid sanding them off later. Sanding the sharp, square edges/corners on projects helps the EnviroTex Lite flow over and cover edges much better.
(7). Use Auto Body Masking Tape to dam the edges of a surface to contain coating on top. This tape is very tacky and will stand up properly to create a clean edge. Rub it onto the side of the bar (straight sides only, won’t work with bull nose sides), pour coating. REMOVE tape after three to four hours curing in 70* F temperature. The then sharp edge will slump into a soft bull nose edge all around the perimeter of the project. Tape left in place will create a raised edge which will need to be sanded and project must be re-flood coated.
(8). Metal surfaces like copper should be very clean and adhered to a substrate to eliminate movement. EnviroTex Lite will adhere to abraded metal surfaces better than slick polished surfaces.
(9). The following method is recommended to help eliminate the air bubbles that want to cling to bare metal surfaces. Measure and mix the volume needed for the flood coat. Before flooding, smear a small amount of the mixed product over the entire metal surface, then follow up immediately with the remaining volume for the flood coat. While degassing, avoid heating the metal, keep the propane torch12 inches from the surface.
(10). Outdoor use is discouraged because the coating can crack in freezing/thawing weather and can oxidize to a white powdery finish and bumpy surface when exposed to direct sunlight and rain.
(11). Don’t apply Envirotex Lite thicker than 1/8 of an inch. To thick of a coating can overheat, steam, crack and turn yellow. Double the coverage chart volume if 1/8 of an inch depth is desired. If pouring multiple layers or building a thicker coating, allow each coat to dry before applying the next coat (typically 8 to 24 hours).